An apt symbol of Singapore's modern outlook and cultural heritage may just be the cheongsam, the traditional Chinese dress known for its sleek, elegant silhouette and timeless appeal that transcends generations. Said to have its origins in a long, loose robe worn by Manchu women during the Qing dynasty, the cheongsam evolved into a body-conscious (and somewhat unforgiving) garment that eventually faded from popularity as younger generations pursued more progressive, international styles.
Happily, the cheongsam is now enjoying something of a revival in Singapore, thanks to a new generation of tailors reimagining the traditional style in a slew of fresh, contemporary cuts and fabrics that couldn't be more different from anything hanging in your grandmother's wardrobe. These are our must-visits.
The Missing Piece
This charming, airy boutique in Cluny Court (a shophouse cluster dating back to 1928) was founded by a mother-of-three who got her start making comfortable yet stylish one-of-a-kind pieces for herself and her children. Her designs for The Missing Piece follow her original concept, comprising chic clothing made of soft and breathable fabrics for men, women, and children that work particularly well in tropical climates.
The Missing Piece
The brand's cheongsams are wonderfully modern and feature an array of unexpected hues (like saturated reds and blues), fresh silhouettes (like jumpsuits, flared skirts and waist cut-outs) and a wide range of fabrics (from intricate lace to sequins). Clever convertible features like removable sleeves or buttons that can be completely secured (for more formal occasions) or left open to reveal slivers of skin ensure multiple wears. Several cheongsam designs also come with coordinated options for the rest of the family.
Lark & Peony
These are definitely not your mother's cheongsam: Lark & Peony's raison d'etre of 'modern Asian style' means the iconic garment is reborn in diverse prints and patterns spanning Liberty-esque florals to geometric motifs and dramatic botanicals. The brand also deftly deconstructs the cheongsam, keeping its iconic, body-skimming ethos while tweaking it to add flair and a more forgiving fit. For example, the fit-and-flare shape of its Yokihi design means you can eat more than just one pineapple tart at your next festive gathering. Designed in small batches to reduce fabric waste, each of Lark & Peony's cheongsams are meant to last and become 'future heirlooms that can be passed down to the next generation.'
Lark & Peony
Yeomama Batik
Founded by a mother and daughter, Yeomama's cheongsams are crafted from batik. This technique originated in Java, Indonesia, where intricate patterns are made on cloth using dye and wax. It makes a wide range of exuberantly patterned batik cheongsams, each featuring traditional batik motifs like clouds, parang (traditional knife), islands, or the kawung, a historic geometric design that's been associated with sugar-palm fruit seeds and political power.
Yeomama Batik
Customers can choose from traditional silhouettes or updated ones like playsuits, midi dresses, separates and A-line cuts. We especially like the Yuki cheongsam dress, a knee-length bodycon outfit with a mandarin collar and flutter sleeves in the Wavesong design, blue motifs created using hand-stamping and hand-drawing techniques. Yeomama upcycles its batik offcuts into functional products like tank tops, kids' shirts and tote bags, which are worth checking out, too.
Studio HHFZ
Founded by Temasek Polytechnic graduate Hu Ruixian, Studio HHFZ is where to go if you're after a truly one-of-a-kind bespoke cheongsam that fully expresses your personality. Hu is on a personal mission to show people that anyone can wear a cheongsam, injecting a youthful, contemporary take on the traditional dress limited only by your imagination.
Studio HHFZ
You can choose, for example, custom prints created in collaboration with local artists, and pretty much any fabric or design you desire – the studio's past commissions have featured everything from Japanese brocade and tweed to diaphanous tulle capes embellished with fine, beaded lace appliques. Each cheongsam takes at least five months to craft, depending on its complexity.
Laichan
Generations of (local and international) women are clients of Laichan, the eponymous brand of Goh Lai Chan, the couturier known as Singapore's master cheongsam maker. Also known for clothing dignitaries and celebrities, Goh specialises in extremely flattering designs made from lush fabrics like Italian and Japanese silks and delicate French lace, as well as unexpectedly exquisite details like semi-precious stone buttons instead of traditional frog button fastenings, making for cheongsams that are true statement pieces.
Laichan
Picture, for instance, one of his most recent designs – a dramatic ankle-length cheongsam in fuchsia-pink silk, accented by a dramatic line of turquoise stone buttons that trace the wearer's decollete to her hip. Goh's inclusive approach means all are welcome at his Paragon boutique, which offers made-to-measure and pret-a-porter styles.
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