Cast your eyes down the coast of Croatia. Keep going. And when you reach the Bay of Kotor, stop. Because that’s where this story starts – at the point where Croatia’s complete command of the coastline comes to an end, altruistically allowing Montenegro and Albania a slice of the Adriatic action.
Having only earned their spots on the radar of discerning travellers in recent years, these less-explored Balkan countries are still somewhat of a secret themselves. But the stretch of the Balkan Riviera that runs from Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor (Lake Como’s up-and-coming competitor) all the way down to Albania’s Ksamil (debatably dubbed ‘The Maldives of Europe’) is starting to catch up to Croatia’s acclaim. And we’re here to spill their secrets before they boom in a big way.
Book a boutique bolthole
Cobbled streets lined with cypress trees lead you to Zoe Hora – Albanian’s first truly luxury property that, despite hovering high on a hill above Dhërmi, wouldn’t look out of place in the Tuscan hills. At dusk, its stone walls glow a honey hue, signalling it’s time to sip a spritz on the terrace as the sun sets slowly over the red roofs and hazy horizon.
Palazzo Sbutega, Montenegro (L) | Zoe Hora, Albania (R)
Over in Montenegro, you’ll receive the warmest of welcomes at Palazzo Sbutega – a perfectly restored five-bedroom bolthole that’s perched right on the water’s edge in the picturesque Prčanj (with a private pontoon that’s a genuinely hidden gem, too).
Cruise the coast by speedboat
Montenegro is no stranger to superyachts. But those in the know stray away from the man-made marinas where majestic boats are berthed boastfully side by side in favour of speedboat tours around the Bay of Kotor, exploring hidden submarine tunnels and small, marooned islands that hold secrets of their own.
Grama Bay, Albania
Despite Albania’s scarcity of superyachts, its sublime scenery certainly suits cruising up and down the coast in a speedboat – like, setting off from Dhërmi’s beach, swinging into bright blue caves, and stopping at the totally untouched Grama Bay.
Sample super fresh, local shellfish
Luka’s Oyster Farm in Montenegro and The Mussel House in Albania both delightfully do what they say on the tin – from slurping down freshly shucked oysters that are plucked out the sea before your very eyes to moseying around the mussel farm by motorboat before selecting your serving straight from the salty water. Whilst scrumptious seafood comes (literally) in boatloads in the Balkan Riviera, there’s something extra special about these shellfish speciality spots that give a whole new meaning to ‘catch of the day’.
The Mussel House, Albania (L) | Luka’s Oyster Farm, Montenegro (R)
Take a detour to a tiny village or two
What's in a name? In the case of Rose (a drowsy fishing village on the westernmost tip of Montenegro’s Luštica Peninsula that’s as pretty as its name) and Gjirokastër (a UNESCO World Heritage site in Albania whose name means ‘city of stone’), a lot.
Rose, Montenegro
In Rose, rustic fishing boats bob by the shore, the sun beats off stone buildings stamped with symmetrical shutters, and mountain peaks paint a picture-perfect backdrop. In Gjirokastër, traditional hand-woven rugs and colourful trinkets cover cobbled streets and white-washed, higgledy-piggledy houses. These villages might be small in size but they’re larger-than-life in spirit. Trust us.
Relax and recharge at a wellness resort
Sometimes a seascape is all it takes is to calm the nervous system. Add a Swedish-style sauna into the mix, and it’s a double-whammy of wellness. At the Hyatt Recency Kotor Bay’s spa, you get both. As the dry steam surrounds you and the wooden bench burns beneath you, peer through the small, circular windowpane out onto the bay, where the waters softly ripple right up to the mountains.
Bamboo Spa & Hammam, Albania (L) | Hyatt Recency Kotor Bay, Montenegro (R)
Across Albania’s border, our recommendation is similarly steamy – except, this time, it’s a high-end hammam at Bamboo Spa in the Meliã Durrës Hotel. Expect to find yourself in hot water. The relaxing kind.
Visit vineyards for a taste of Balkan wines
Grapes, glorious grapes. The Balkans are home to hundreds of unique, native varieties – from Vlosh in Albania to Vranac in Montenegro. In fact, Albania is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world – and charming, family-run winery Çobo, near the ancient city of Berat, is the vineyard to visit for a feel of this history.
Savina, Montenegro (L) | Çobo, Albania (R)
For sun-soaked vineyards and sweeping sea views, Savina winery (sitting on a hillside above its monastery namesake) in Montenegro is the spot for sipping Chardonnay in stylish surrounds. And then there’s rakia. Not wine but traditional brandy with a strong taste (and even stronger alcohol content). When offered a shot, don’t pass it up.
Travel back in time through history
After a century of unrest, the dust is finally starting to settle in this region. And as it clears, the land reveals itself to be an intricate tapestry of fortresses, castles, and churches that rival those of Game of Thrones fame in Croatia.
Porto Palermo, Albania (L) | Mamula Island, Montenegro (R)
Take Albania’s Porto Palermo, for example – a uniquely shaped castle commissioned by a romantic royal, before becoming a fortress of defence and trade. Or Montenegro’s Mamula Island – a former prison camp-turned-ultra-luxury hotel that can only be accessed by private boat charter.
