Whilst the Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most visited (in other words, crowded) destinations, Ravello is more under the radar. Unlike Positano and Amalfi, which are right on the water, it’s perched high in the mountains, making it a bit harder to reach and thus less popular with day trippers. Really, though, Ravello has always been a haven for the elite.
Where Amalfi was a powerful maritime republic and Positano a poor fishing village, Ravello was the favoured town of noblemen, artists, and writers – including DH Lawrence, Richard Wagner, and MC Escher. Today, it’s still a favourite spot for savvy travellers who want to soak up the glamour of the coast without the crowds. Here, we select our favourite under-the-radar things to do, from where to find the best pizza to the villas worth visiting.
Via San Giovanni del Toro 28, 84010 Ravello
Palazzo Avino
There are two luxurious five-star hotels in Ravello and they’re right next to each other. Our pick is Palazzo Avino, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World run by the very fashionable Avino sisters, who will warmly welcome you onto the property and generously share their local tips. Don’t miss aperitivo hour at the Lobster & Martini Bar, which has a menu with pages upon pages of cocktails, and dinner at the Michelin-starred Rosselini’s Restaurant, which revealed a renovation this season.
Clubhouse by the Sea
If you want to soak up the sun and splash around in the sea far from the crowds, the place to go is Palazzo Avino’s Clubhouse by the Sea in the neighbouring town of Marmorata. There’s a free shuttle for guests of the hotel, who enjoy complimentary use of the lounge chairs, changing rooms, and pool. You could easily while away the day here, sunbathing on a platform carved into the hill, swimming in the sea, and savouring some fresh pasta or the catch of the day at the restaurant.
Via Marmorata, località Marmorata, Ravello
Piazza Duomo 1, 84010 Ravello
Villa Rufolo
This medieval villa is so enchanting that Richard Wagner used its gardens as inspiration for Klingsor’s Garden in his opera Parsifal. Originally built in the 13th century for the powerful Rufolo family, it was purchased in 1851 by Sir Francis Nevile Reid, a Scotsman who restored it to its former glory and replanted the gardens. In the summer, it plays host to the Ravello Festival, with a platform for the orchestra constructed in the lower garden. But even if you can’t catch a concert there, the villa and gardens are worth a visit.
Villa Cimbrone
Rivalling Villa Rufolo, Villa Cimbrone is perched higher up in town – about a 15-minute uphill walk from the main square. Make the trek, though, and you’ll be rewarded with eye-popping panoramic views from the Belvedere of Infinity. The villa was built relatively recently, in 1905 by the English Lord Grimthorpe, who found inspiration in the town’s Moorish and Classical architecture. Today, the villa is a hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant – and the extensive gardens are a delight to explore.
Via Santa Chiara 26, 84010 Ravello
Via Roma 44, 84010 Ravello
Cumpa’ Cosimo
Netta Bettone still presides over this unassuming trattoria, which has been run by her family for four generations. The humble, simply furnished dining room is adorned with newspaper clippings, drawings, and photos of Ravello and some of the celebrities who have dined here, including Jackie Onassis and – more recently – John Legend and Chrissy Teigen. Skip the bolognese; this is the place to try seafood dishes like fried shrimp and calamari.
Mimì Pizzeria & Cucina
This family-run restaurant on a small side street is a local favourite for Neapolitan-style pizza; all ingredients are sourced from the family’s vegetable garden or farms nearby. In addition to the standard margherita, there are creative options like one with mortadella, stracciatella, and pistachios or one inspired by spaghetti alla Nerano, with zucchini, basil, and provola from Agerola. You really can’t go wrong.
Via San Francesco 12, 84010 Ravello
Via Roma 22, 84010 Ravello
Ceramiche d’Arte Pascal
Shops selling ceramics are a dime a dozen on the Amalfi Coast, but Pascal sells true art pieces in pottery form. Some of the designs are so exquisitely detailed it’s hard to believe they were painted by hand – the shop’s ebullient owner, Pasquale Sorrentino, will be happy to tell you all about them.
